Birdies and boogie in the Mississippi Delta
This article appeared in the April 2026 edition of Chicago District Golfer.
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Courses like Fallen Oak (pictured) and Tunica National combine with Blues clubs such as Ground Zero to create a unique Mississippi experience.
If I were planning a golf trip, Mississippi most likely wouldn’t be on my short list. For Midwesterners, standard stops include Michigan and Wisconsin, for sure. Looking south, top choices are North and South Carolina and, of course, Florida. After visiting the Magnolia State last spring, y’all, I stand corrected. Mississippi might be one of the most underrated golf destinations in America. Not only did the state come out of nowhere for me, I left wanting to get back as soon as possible.
I scored an invitation last year to tour the state with a group of golf writers and wasn’t sure what to expect. I felt like an outsider to the party. That faded shortly after I arrived at Gulfport-Biloxi International Airport. Everybody made me feel welcome and promised a memorable outing.
The journey started on the Gulf Coast and featured world-class accommodations and legendary Southern hospitality at Beau Rivage Resort & Casino. The golf at the Tom Fazio-designed Fallen Oak Golf Course was outstanding. Food was fresh from the sea at Coraline’s, where I dined on Gulf shrimp and grits.
The expedition apexed, though, after we trekked more than 300 miles through Clarksdale in the Delta region of Mississippi and ultimately settled in Tunica. (Note to self: Next time when traveling to Tunica, fly non-stop into Memphis from ORD or MDW. Then tour Elvis Presley’s Graceland mansion and eat ribs on Beale Street. Memphis is only 30 miles to Tunica.)
Our first stop on the final leg was the Gold Strike Casino Resort. If Beau Rivage offered country club luxury, Gold Strike gave o vibes of a charming muni. After a late night challenging the house on the blackjack tables, we teed it up at Tunica National, a wind-whipped track drawn up on former cotton fields by PGA Tour winner Mark McCumber.
Before heading back to home base, we toured the Gateway to the Blues Museum on Highway 61. The former train depot, circa 1895, tells the story of how Blues were born. I lost myself in the exhibits, including a hand-written songbook of Lightnin’ Hopkins and guitars picked by Robert Johnson, B.B. King and Bo Diddley.
The history lesson served as a teaser for what came next. The night found us in Clarksdale, the town known as the birthplace of the Blues. I stood at The Crossroads, the intersection of Highway 49 and 61, a location steeped in musical mythology, one where Johnson was to have sold his soul to the devil in exchange for otherworldly guitar skills.
The Delta, a patch roughly 200 miles long and 100 miles wide, spawned a movement responsible for rock-and-roll and country, among other popular genres. Artists including John Lee Hooker, Muddy Waters, R.L. Burnside and Junior Kimbrough all hailed from the region. They inspired some of the biggest bands in the world, notably Led Zeppelin and The Rolling Stones.
Dinner was at Ground Zero Blues Club. I inhaled crispy catfish from the country oven – deep fryer – and satisfied my craving for Southern sides, such as turnip greens and black-eyed peas. Even with a belly full of food, I still managed to boogie to Muddy Alexander and his band. The party moved on to Red’s Lounge, a steamy juke joint down the street that oozed blues from every wall.
Our bodies sweaty and souls sated, we piled back onto the bus back to Tunica. Although exhausted, my new friends and I walked past the elevators to our rooms and wandered into the casino one last time. Assisted by the infectious energy of the unforgettable evening, we all went to sleep winners.
Matt Harness is an award-winning golf writer who frequently contributes to Chicago District Golfer.
Ain't No Blues at Beau Rivage
For those travelers who are looking for a different Mississippi experience, I recommend exploring the Southern part of the state.
Pony up and stay at the Beau Rivage, where everything is first class. The resort reminds you of the luxe Las Vegas Strip. Plus, guests get access to Fallen Oak (pictured), arguably the best course in the state, ranked No. 48 on Golf Digest’s America’s 100 Greatest Public Courses. Golfweek once listed it as the No. 2-ranked casino course behind Vegas’ Shadow Creek, another Fazio layout. Fallen Oak treats players like they are members at an elite private club.
Opened in 2006 and former home to the PGA Tour Champions, Fallen Oak freely flows with the gentle rolls of the land. There are trees — including, yes, a fallen oak off the 18th fairway — but it doesn’t feel crowded. There’s water, but it’s avoidable. A big feature is the bunkering, which is restrained, especially around the greens.
There’s no shortage of good food and drink in and around the Beau Rivage. For a pre-dinner cocktail, walk across the street to Catch 110 and let a bartender dream you up a special elixir to help heal the scars left on the scorecard.
When the sun goes down, and you’re not feeling lucky, go cheer on the Biloxi Shuckers, a Double-A affiliate of the Milwaukee Brewers who play at MGM Park.
—Matt Harness